I’ve wanted to go to Burning Man for a number of years now, and this was the year it finally happened! The goal was to experience first-hand the crazy-sounding movement/experience that has been brewing for the past 17 years. To find out why it’s grown so exponentially and to challenge ourselves to live in a harsh desert environment among a completely unique society free of any cash economy (there’s a barter and gifting economy only).
The Burning Man “Playa” is a semicircle going from 60° to 300° and extending 3700’ from the man himself. There’s a radius “street” every 15° and a concentric “street” approximately every 1000’ starting at about 2700’ from the man (that’s 10 concentric rings emanating from the Burning Man). That’s a huge area and we walked probably an average of 10 miles per day.
As a big summary, I’d say Burning Man is like being in a cross between the Road Warrior, a David Lynch movie, and a sci-fi tent town.
Walking out into a dust storm, hat on and bandana up.
Here are my notes, as originally scribbled in my journal, during the whole experience. More stuff happens past day four (one and a half more days in fact), but by then, I was burnt out on sensory overload, hot, dirty, and unwilling to bother taking notes anymore.
Day 1 - Wed, Aug 28, 2002
- We arrive in Reno and load up with 24 gallons of water and do some light grocery shopping. We start the 3 hour drive to Black Rock City.
- We arrive at Burning Man in the middle of the night and set up camp to get some food (some Kung Pao chicken derivative). I’m starving at this point. BTW, there’s no Wal-Mart or any place to buy anything (or for that matter, civilization to any recognizable extent) once you leave Reno. The last thing I remember leaving Reno was the smell of fried chicken. → Buy anything you need in Reno. There’s no going back.
- As we eat, some woman shows up a foot away from me and interrogates us before telling us we have to leave b/c that area is reserved for DPW (Dept. of Public Works). We leave (but harbor a secret desire to sabotage their area later). → Camp at open areas and ask the folks around if it’s cool to set up.
- We set up again between 270° and 285° and between 3600’ and 3700’ (yes, way out there) and head out to the man. → Get there earlier if you want to be closer to the action. If you like quiet, don’t bother going to the Burning Man or bring some really good earplugs.
- As we get to the center area, reserved for Theme Camps, we are visually bombarded by every costume imaginable – men as women, women as men, people as animals, Jedi Knights, painted people, people in crazy wigs and neon lights. → Bring a costume next time. It doesn’t hurt to be odd.
- As we reach the innermost concentric street, called the Esplanade, we are again bombarded by a band on a stage blasting away music (good music by the way…ala New Order), the art cars (more on those later), streams of wandering people on foot and bikes, steady streams of neon lights and other glow-in-the-dark items, videos playing on a massive 60’ geodesic dome, people on bullhorns, and fields of art.
- One of the highlights for us is a real live Battlezone tank. Remember this game? Well, someone outlined their vehicle with neon and pedaled around all night. Excellent.
The Battlezone tank: someone's vehicle outlined in neon and pedaled around all night.
- We wander around until we reach the center camp located at 180° and the Esplanade. Inside a huge tent we watch a Fiona Apple-esque singer donning a set of wings. Then a few acts get booed off the stage. We leave and watch this guy moving around a crystal orb like he was liquid. Very cool stuff. → Buy a crystal orb.
- We walk to the Burning Man to pay tribute. He’s on a 60’ or so platform and we walk up to get close and see the view from the elevated environment. Yep, it’s a big desert.
The Man on his lighthouse base, getting finishing touches from a boom lift.
- Around 2:30 AM PST, I hit the wall and must go back to camp. As we haven’t really set up the tents and all, we make the call to sleep in the minivan. I wake up four times realizing I need to go to the bathroom but not wanting to walk six “blocks” over to go. It’s a tough night and it’s freezing. The music doesn’t stop at all and its one riff played over and over. I dream of sabotaging their speakers the next day. → Be sure you go to the bathroom before you go back to camp, even if you don’t have to go to the bathroom. Bring plenty of blankets. And bring earplugs.
Day 2 - Thu, Aug 29, 2002
- The next day, I wake up around 8:00 AM feeling rough. Every morning from then until I am in my cushy bed at home is the same. But a little coffee, granola bar, and some hot sun makes it all feel better. → Bring an inflatable air cushion as a bed.
- We head out around 9:00 AM and decide to go to the center Playa to see the art work.
- The first thing we see on the Playa is a big square chain-link wire fence. Inside a spiraling walkway is a big plot of grass (yes, in the middle of the desert) with steel artwork stuck on poles. We walk around the fence, then inside the first ring, the second ring, and finally get inside. We notice half-way through that there’s a group doing calisthenics inside. We avoid that area. The art work is really cool stuff carved out of thick steel into the form of various animals/forms – praying mantis, clowns, trees, flowers, etc.
- We walk to the Burning Man again and head toward a hut looking like structure. As we approach it, we realize it’s a three-story house filigreed to an amazing degree. It’s huge and there’s people wandering around. It’s called the Temple of Joy and is a tribute to 9/11. The artist who built it has been using the Burning Man as a form of catharsis to work through his own personal pain. The Temple of Joy is a beautiful structure that is somber and inspirational in its purpose. It’s among the coolest thing I see there.
The Temple of Joy, somber and inspirational, and among the coolest things there.
- Next, we head out to a big fish and I crawl into its mouth. Nothing there.
- Beyond the fish, we find a statue of a cherub-like thing.
- Next up on the playa is a huge rubber duck. It’s about 25’ tall and people are lined up to climb inside. We decline and keep moving.
- We move onto the Isle of Lost Soles which is a spiraling layout of shoes. There are two people following the shoe spiral, but they have their own shoes on.
- Beyond that is a big octopus structure that is not quite complete.
- We realize we are running out of water and decide that we better head back before we dehydrate. → Bring a strap-on the back water sources or be prepared for heading back to camp a lot.
- After hydrating up and filling our water bottles, we head out again. This time, we aim for hitting the other side of the semi-circle (the 60° to 180° area).
- The other side of the semi-circle is not quite active yet since it’s still early. But there’s the usual assortment (that we have begun to get used to) of huge structures and sprawling tents. People get serious about their living areas, and we see things like two story wooden structures that people dance on, many RVs, parachutes propped up by rebar poles, and life guard stations (but luckily, there were no drownings).
- As we get back to camp to eat, we notice some more people are setting up around us. Facing straight out from the center of the Playa, at 10 o’clock are Chris and Ann, who we later learn are 8 and 7 year veterans of Burning Man. They are putting up a parachute tent. Unfortunately, we don’t really meet them until the last night of our last day. → Meet your neighbors early.
- An RV that had been there the night before (around our 5 o’clock mark) is pulling up because they are going to reset up with some friends.
- As the RV packs up, an SUV pulls up. As one of them come out, I ask if they’d like to pull their SUV next our minivan (a Chevy Venture) and stretch a tarp across it to give us some shade. They agree it’s a good idea and we begin to get into the spirit of the Burning Man community and gift economy. We have our first camp mates – Greg the UPS guy, Jen the cartographer, and Sara the idealist. Greg and Jen are from Reno and Sara is from DC. → Don’t be shy.
- As they are setting up camp and we are setting up the tarp, two more cars pull in. We ask if they need help and offer our tarp shade. In an Expedition is Marcus the finance guy/amateur tech-geek photographer from San Francisco and in a car is Claire the law student from somewhere in the Bay Area. They bring whatever suppliers they have into the tarp area. Now, we have a tarp, a table, chairs, and a bunch of food. Over the course of the next few days, our camp continues to grow and people keep contributing/bringing more items/food. → The tarp is your best friend. Bring at least two.
- Sometime during the day, a truck goes by spraying water out to keep down the dust. A stream of people run behind it like it’s an ice cream truck, trying to cool off. → Bring a way to shower, or just stay dirty.
- We chill much of the day and get to know each other a little better. As night falls, Claire wanders off and Sara goes somewhere unknown. The rest of us head out to take in the sights again. Marcus keeps stopping every 10 feet or so to take pictures.
- For dinner, we have convert tortillas and cheese provided by Marcus into quesadillas on Greg’s camp stove, along with some red beans and rice (that sat outside for about a day before we cleaned it up..yech).
- This evening, we walk the same path but everything is different. The band is gone and the center camp has a not-so-cool performance so we keep going.
- We wander to a roller-blade rink (that even had a Pac-Man arcade game) where Marcus and Jen go for a spin.
- We continue wandering and hear the increasing sound of Pac-Man and hooting. As we approach, I realize it’s a big human size Pac-Man maze. One person puts on a yellow Pac-Man helmet and runs around popping balloons while others put on the ghost helmets and chases the Pac-Man around. It’s hilarious and killer (a popular phrase there apparently).
- Everyone wants to go to the man so Stan and I follow. As we get closer, we see a field of tulips that are made from circuit boards and light up as you move across the field.
- When I look up next, I see Stan but everyone else is not in sight. Separation becomes a pattern over the next few days.
- The remaining fellowship (Stan and I) see big blasts of fire and so are naturally drawn to it. We go to the fire to get heated up a bit before heading onto the man.
- At the man, we find Marcus, but decide to keep moving on since stopping every 10’ is annoying.
- As we go back, the New Order-like band is back and playing. We chill for a bit and listen.
- We wander around a bit more before we head back to camp. I’m thinking of sleeping, but Stan drags me out to head to Center Camp.
- At Center Camp, there’s no one on stage and everyone looks like they are half asleep. We sit down and realize that we’ve both nearly ready to pass out.
- We head back and I sleep in the tent while Stan sleeps in the mini-van again.
Camp: a tarp strung from the minivan's hatch to the next vehicle for shade.
Day 3 - Fri, Aug 30, 2002
- The next morning, everyone chips in to create a decent breakfast (sausage and potatoes) with coffee and all.
- Claire brings a motorized skateboard that people eye warily for a while. The skateboard is her boyfriend’s and has been to Burning Man many times, but this time he couldn’t make it, and wanted someone to continue to use it at Burning Man. Being an ex-skate or die punk, I gleefully volunteer to take it out for a spin. After a few initial slips and falls, I get the hang of it and am ready to rock and roll.
- Stan is sun-burnt because he was too macho to use the SPF 30 I had. I also wore my wide-brimmed hat any time the sun was out. → Love your sunscreen.
- I cross the playa to the 60 degrees mark and decide I’m going to skate my way through the entire camp. Skating, or sand-surfing, is awesome and people are staring at me like I’m crazy the whole way. At around 120 degrees, the skateboard starts slowing down a lot. I head back to camp realizing I forgot to ask how far this thing can go. As I hit the playa again (and about 4000’ from camp), it pretty much dies out on me. I consider leaving it, but since it’s on loan, I kick it skateboard-style all the way back to camp. Ouch – especially because I’ve forgotten my water. → Always know the range of your vehicles.
- Once I get back and recover, Stan and I realize that we need more ice. We head to center camp to buy some ice. The walk back is grueling. I put it on my head and develop brain freeze. We buy 4 bags of ice and end up with about 3 by the time we get back to camp. → Above all, bring transportation with baskets or something to carry stuff.
- On the way to get ice, we come across a roller coaster. Yes, an honest-to-goodness 100’ or so freefall-style roller coaster. Stan questions whether or not it’s been properly inspected and I agree. But that doesn’t stop people from riding it.
- We sit around some more until Claire wanders back and I help her change the battery on the skateboard. Heh, ready to go again!
- This time, a couple of people try the skateboard. Stan, Marcus, and Claire are not so good on it yet and Marcus and Claire give up. Jen tries is and is actually pretty good. She becomes the secondary rider when I’m not out hogging it up. That’s okay though because she has a bike. Stan will get better over the next few days although he never takes it out for a long spin.
- I hit the road again on the skateboard and wander around on our side of the playa. A teen on a two-story bike looks at my skateboard (I’ve adopted it as mine) and gives it a big thumbs-up. Half-way through my trip, a woman on a bike asks me if I’m Japanese because she’d like to interview me if I was. But since I’m not, I declined. This time I’m more careful and manage to run out of juice just as I’m heading back to the camp.
- Lunch was Raviolis mixed with Spaghetti-O’s
- There are too many individual weird things to break out into little sections. I see camps serving omelets, people jumping on trampolines, a car filled with ducks, more crazy outfits, and more crazy bike-variants.
- As I head back to camp, an RV pulls up at our 1 o’clock mark and a stream of Irish come out. 9 Irish men and 2 Irish women. We say hello and offer our tarp shade. It’s getting crowded now, but they come two or three at a time and hang out.
- At some point I decided to try to take a shower, but Stan tells me the camp shower doesn’t work. I just take the gallon jugs I had placed out in the sun to get warm and pour them on myself and do my best. Naturally, as I’m showering a dust storm hits us. So much for the shower.
- Stan and I decide the sand storm is the best time to hit the playa. I grab my goggles and handkerchief and we head straight into the heart of the sand storm. Yeah!
Stan heading into the heart of Friday's sand storm, handkerchief up.
- As we wander back to the Temple of Joy, we come across a frame like the one in Road Warrior Thunderdome but smaller, and start climbing it. After we get kicked off, we continue onward. The Temple is completed now and there’s writing all over the surface – messages left by well-wishers, personal messages, etc.
- After about an hour, the sand storm settles and as we head back to the camp, it starts to rain a bit. We start jogging but in the heat and at 4000’ elevation, we don’t get too far.
- On our way back, we see a new structure – a big chime like thing. Stan stops to take a picture of it, and catches a lightning bolt in the background. How cool is that? → Bring lots of picture-taking gear.
- Back in camp, we cook up some food and chow down.
- As night falls, we all head out together, including the Irish (who are too numerous to get individual names).
- One of the Irish, Liam, is looking to DJ at some of the places so he’s hauling around his vinyl collection. He apparently met up with some folks earlier who told him to go by the Taza (?) camp.
- We get to Taza and there’s no one there so we head toward Center Camp to regroup.
- From Center Camp, the group starts to splinter. The Irish keep saying to go to the dome, but 50% of the bigger tents are domes so naturally we split.
- As our splinter group (Marcus, Claire, some Irish - Eddie, Colom, and Linda - Stan, and me) goes to one of the many domes, I step to the Playa to go pee. When I get back, Stan is sitting on the ground among a bunch of bicycles.
- Stan is worn out and done for the night. Kind strangers keep him company until I can walk him back to camp.
- I walk Stan back to camp and find that I’m tired enough to go to sleep myself. I sleep in the tent.
Day 4 - Sat, Aug 31, 2002
- On our third full day, I wake up around 8:00 AM having slept a little better. It’s pretty quiet outside but Stan is wandering around the campsite. He’s looking pretty good and apparently recovered just fine.
- The truck spraying water comes by again. I shiver at the thought of cold water in the cold morning air.
- The others slowly wake and we get a bit of breakfast going again. Then we hang out, trying to recover a bit.
- Claire suggests that she bring her car around so that we can extend our tarp some more, but we pick Marcus’s Expedition instead. We stretch out more tarp and jury rig everything together. Then we shuffle the camp around and write on the dusty windows of our cars, “Camp Shanty”. We now have 3 cars, about 10’ x 20’ in shade, a table, tons of coolers and chairs for seating, food and drinks lying all over, Greg, Jen, Sara, Jenovese, Marcus, 11 Irish, Stan, and myself. → Create your own shanty town on the first day instead of the last.
- Partway through the day, David, another neighbor, wanders over with some two crates of Pringles and candy and is inducted into Camp Shanty. → Bring candy as offerings.
- Marcus suggests that he and I make another ice run to replenish everyone’s supply. I borrow a bike and we head to center camp.
- At center camp, we find a T-Shirt making factory that consists of a plywood palette with the Burning Man symbol and cans of spray paint. We make some t-shirts and wander around while they are drying off. In the center camp which is packed in the daytime, we see people twisting each other around like pretzels in slow-motion. Random people join in the fun. Marcus grabs an iced latte and we grab 10 bags of ice.
- I ride back with 5 bags of ice hanging off my handlebars. It’s not an easy ride and I hope I don’t take a spill. Luckily, I don’t and I make it back with about 4 ¾ bags of ice. Speed is good when it comes to ice and desert. → Again, bring a basket for the bike.
- Back at camp, we unload the ice and Stan has taken off on someone’s bike.
- When Stan gets back, I jump on the skateboard and we go to wander around. Unwisely, I’m in my sandals and when someone starts talking to me, I take a big spill, stubbing the heck out of my right big toe. As we ride back to camp, I look down and realize I’m bleeding. → Bring the deluxe first aid kit.
- Back at camp, I wash off the half-inch or so of playa dust and realize that my toenail is black. Ouch. I did the exact same thing a few years ago and had to rip off my toenail. I bust out the first aid kit, but find that I have no band aids because Stan has used them on his blisters. Luckily, the Camp Shanty residents scrounge up some band aids and I wrap up my toe. I limp around some but am otherwise okay – you don’t really need toenails.
- By this point, we were pretty tired, dirty (my hair styled up w/o the assistance of any hair product…just good old dust and sweat), and injured so we hung around the base camp waiting for the burn to start.
- For lunch/dinner, we had beef stew mix mixed with canned stewed diced tomatoes, Thai chicken mix, and some sandwiches. We also went over to our neighbor Dave and Ruth when we realized that she was cooking steaks and chicken wrapped in banana leaves. → Forget the camp food. It’s a short enough trip to bring real food.
Saturday night, the Man burns.
More Days?
- NOTE FROM May 20, 2023 - Pretty sure we stayed at least another day or two after this, but don't recall that well anymore....